One of the perks of taking Thriving Canine’s Advanced Drop-In Class is that it includes the option of pre-class off-leash socialization at no extra charge. (for dogs that qualify)

These socialization groups are NOT officially part of the Advanced Drop-In Class and participation in them should be considered a privilege, not a right. 

Some dogs may not qualify for off-leash socialization but can still attend the Advanced Obedience Class, which officially starts at 9:00 am. 

Below are the rules and guidelines for attending these off-leash socials. 

Ask for Assistance

If it’s your dog’s first time coming to one of these socials, or if you are struggling or unsure for any reason at all, please ask for assistance before entering the field. 

Read the Release of Liability Form 

You are completely liable for yourself, your dog and your dog’s actions. 

Off leash socialization with adult dogs is risky business. 

Accidents can happen.

Dog fights can happen. 

Trips and falls can happen

• Uneven terrain
• Gopher holes and other tripping hazards
• Dogs can knock people down

We mow but there are still a lot of weeds, including fox tails. 

You have already signed the release of liability back when you submitted your dog’s intake form but you probably checked the box without actually reading it. Busted! 😀

Seriously though, please read it now. 

Put Your Game Face On

This is NOT a dog park, this is an advanced dog training class.

You are here because you earned the right to be here by taking the prerequisite courses. 

Keep your head in the game at all times. 

Be alert, apply the skills you have learned and don’t act like a rookie. 

Exiting Your Car

Make your dog “wait” before releasing from the car.

Do not release your dog from the car until reasonably calm.

Walking from the Car to the Field

Unless you have excellent off-leash control of your dog, please keep your dog on leash until you get into the socialization yard. 

DO NOT allow your dog to pull on leash. 

Entering the Gate

Enter at your own risk (see: Release of Liability Form)

Make your dog “wait” at the gate.

DO NOT release your dog through the gate until reasonably calm.

DO NOT release your dog through the gate if other dogs are near the gate. 

• The other owners should be calling their dogs away from the gate.
• If they aren’t calling their dogs away, get Chad’s attention so he can handle it. 
• Close the gate behind you BEFORE unleashing your dog. 

Unleashing Your Dog

AFTER you are inside the gate, calmly remove the leash (and prong collar if using one) then verbally release your dog.

Do not release your dog like a slingshot. 

• Unclipping the leash is NOT a release. 
• If you are restraining your dog, you are NOT ready to unclip the leash.
• When you remove the leash and prong collar, your dog should remain stationary until verbally released. 
• If you struggle with this, bring it up during class and we can work on it.  

Call Your Dog from the Gate

If your dog is at the gate when someone is trying to enter, call your dog. 

• If your dog is not coming when called, go get them and follow through with a reverse recall. (back up and call your dog) 
• If you struggle with this, bring it up during class and we can work on it.  
• Do this with a sense of urgency.  

What’s the big rush? 

1. We don’t want dogs running loose in the parking/traffic area. 
2. Crowding at the gate can trigger fights. 
3. A rapid recall becomes a reliable recall, a slow recall becomes no recall. 

Watch Your Step

The ground on the field, especially the big field, is uneven, untamed terrain. 

There are gopher holes, divots, sticks, toys and who knows what to trip on. 

Watch Your Dog

Keep your eyes on your dog at all times, even while you’re talking and socializing with other humans.

General Safety Tips 

Keep your eyes and ears open at all times, even while you’re talking and socializing with other humans.

Keep your knees bent when dogs are running or wrestling near you.

• This helps maintain balance and flexibility and reduces the chance of injury if dogs crash into you. 

Stay close to the fence.

• Dogs usually know better than to run into a fence, so this location is safer than out in the open. 

Stay close to Chad. 

• The farther you are away, the farther away your dog likely will be and the longer it will take for me to get there if a fight breaks out. 
• If you wander off to the farthest part of the yard, I will assume that you are fully prepared to break up a dog fight on your own.

Learn to Read Canine Body Language

This is a great opportunity to watch and learn how to “speak dog” from the masters themselves. 

Feel free to ask questions about what you see. 

Watch these videos 

Rules of Play Between Dogs 

No Humping

• Even though some dogs don’t mind being humped, it is a sign of overstimulation and/or dominance and it’s a bad habit because some dogs won’t tolerate it. 

No Collar Biting

• It’s a safety hazard because the dog’s jaw can get trapped in the collar.
• It allows the dog to practice biting too hard because the other dog doesn’t feel it and, therefore, doesn’t give a “that was too hard” signal. 

No Speed Metal

• Good play, even really rough play, has dynamics, it pauses, it breathes, it doesn’t just keep going full throttle. 
• Healthy play will have a back and forth movement, a give and take, an eb and flow, and a lot of sideways movements.  
• Good play will not be constant forward movements. 
• Too much time up on the hind legs is also a sign that the play is too intense. 
• Hard rock is fine but speed metal is no bueno. 
• Watch the videos in the Body Language section for some examples. 

No Bullying

• Rough play is fine, as long as it is mutual. 
• If your dog is being too rough with a dog that doesn’t like it, correct your dog and/or call your dog away. 
• If you’re not sure, call it to Chad’s attention. 

Allowing Dogs to Correct Each Other 

• Dogs are allowed to correct each other, within reason. 
• This is a natural canine behavior, within reason.
• If you are unsure about anything at all, call it to Chad’s attention.  

Correcting Dogs for Fighting, Attempted Fighting or Bullying  

The best time to break up a dog fight is before it starts or at least before it escalates. 

• The proper command for this is “Leave It!” but “Hey!” or “No!” are also fine. 
• It’s not about the words, it’s about the tone and the follow through.  
• The proper vocal tone is low, guttural and threatening. 
• Do NOT scream in a high pitched tone. This will make the fighting worse. 

The “Leash Whip” is the usually best way to stop a fight before it escalates. 

• If you don’t know what this is, ask at class and we can go over it. 

If you don’t want other people to correct your dog, do it yourself so they don’t have to. 

Most dog “fights” are really just arguments or dogs correcting each other.

• Sometimes this needs human intervention.
• Sometimes it resolves itself. (see: Rules of Play above) 

If dogs get into a serious fight, don’t break up easily, redirect on me when I break it up, etc. they may need to be corrected VERY HARSHLY. 

• If you are not ok with this, or you don’t trust my judgment to do the right thing, then you should not attend these off-leash socials. 

If you don’t know what to do, get out of the way. 

• People tend to huddle around the fight, which only makes it harder for me to get in there. 
• If you don’t know what to do, step back so that I can get in there and break it up as quickly as possible. 

Dogs that show too much aggression will either lose the privilege of attending socials or be required to wear a muzzle or be required to take private lessons before returning to the socials. 

Call Your Dog Randomly

Off-leash socials are a great opportunity to practice calling your dog. 

Always call away from the gate when others are entering but random recalls are also super valuable.

If your dog hesitates to come when called, you know what you need to do, right? Say it with me…all together now…“Long Line Practice!” You may also want to consider taking the e-collar course or doing some private lessons to learn how to use the long line and/or e-collar properly.

Learn To Appreciate Directness  

First of all, know that I love you all (and your dogs) very much and I want to keep everyone safe and happy. Sometimes it may come in the form of “tough love” but it comes from a place of love, nonetheless. 

Welcome to the Big Leagues

• You and your dog are no longer rookies.
• Everyone here has graduated from Intermediate Class and has come back for more. Many have been coming for years. 
• The expectations are much higher now. 
• The stakes are much higher now. (see all the hazards mentioned previously)

There’s No Time for Sugar Coating

• I have been working really hard on being more patient, compassionate and gentle with people but the fact of the matter is that I will be very direct at times because I’m trying to keep everyone safe and alert. 
• This is NOT a dog park, this is a training field and I am the trainer and I need everyone to be alert to my voice and follow my instructions with a sense of urgency at all times. 
• Of course, everyone will not be alert to my voice and follow instructions at all times, so I might raise my voice, I might be blunt, I might use tabu language and, basically, I will do whatever it takes to get the attention of people who aren’t paying attention. 
• If you find this offensive, please pay attention so it doesn’t happen. 
• Please understand that my intentions are not to be rude, my intentions are to educate and to keep everyone safe so we can all continue enjoying these socialization groups.  

This is Harder Than it Looks

• I am dealing with a dangerous situation that most trainers are not willing to attempt at all. 
  • In fact, I don’t know of a single trainer who does anything close to what we are doing out here. 
  • If you know of one, please let me know. 
• If I’m being direct it is because I’m being efficient.
  • Urgency is essential for safety. 
  • Every second counts. In fact, every fraction of a second counts. 
  • A fraction of a second can make the difference between having a fight or not. 
  • A fraction of a second can make the difference between having an injury or not.  
• I am trying to keep everyone safe, including you and your dog. 
• I am trying to help you and your dog achieve your highest potential. 
• I am trying to navigate a lot of different personalities, both canine and human. 
• If I didn’t believe in you, I wouldn’t put pressure on you.
• If I didn’t care deeply about you and your dog, I wouldn’t be doing this at all. 
• If at any time you feel like I’m being an a-hole, please feel free to say so. I am very open to conversation/criticism and I am continuously trying to improve my people skills. 

Conclusion

Remember that I love you all (and your dogs) very much and I want to keep everyone safe and happy. Sometimes it may come in the form of “tough love” but it comes from a place of love, nonetheless. 

Let’s all keep our head in the game so we can have fun and keep the drama to a minimum. 

Peace, 

Chad Culp – Certified Dog Trainer, Canine Behavior Consultant, Owner of Thriving Canine. 

© Thriving Canine 2025

We offer in-person training in the San Francisco Bay Area as well as virtual consults anywhere in the world.

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The Five Senses of Off-Leash Dog Training 

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